Are you an Early Morning Person?

My dad and me after an early morning surf. Selfie.

Have you ever gone surfing? Have you gotten up at 5:30 in the morning to do it? Now that is pure surfing.

5:30 Dad wakes me up and I start getting ready for surfing. I don’t eat breakfast yet, but I do brush my teeth. I get changed into my bathing suite and surfing top. I grab my surf board, we wax it and I put it in the car because it is only 5’7″. The sun is barely out and I am a little tiny bit tired.

5:45 We get into the car and do the 3 minute drive to one of the two beach entrances (the main one or Bakers Beach entrance).  Sometimes we pick up our neighbor Jim.

5:50 Once at the beach (Bakers Beach), we move north because of some rocks right there. We find a great spot, put on our leash on and head into the water. It feels cold at first, but it is 85 degrees and you’ll get used to it. We have to get out past the waves, so it takes some strong swimming strokes (say that 5 times fast), but we finally make it out. The feeling of the waves splashing on my face wakes me up. I smile. It feels good. I try to catch as many waves as I can. I am getting better and can now turn and do some tricks. I can get up to about 15 to 20 waves every time I go.

6:50 We head home (and sometimes dropping Jim off) and have to wash off the salt and sand off our bodies, suites and boards. We shower outside, put the board away and get dressed for school in my uniform. Josie and mom are up.

7:00 I have breakfast, do the morning routine and get ready for school.

7:30 We then do our carpool routine and it is time for school! Sometimes my hair is a bit wet “and I can smell the ocean in it” (My dad wrote that part that I put in quotations).

It’s very different from back home in Chicago. I mean, have you seen Lake Michigan’s waves? I do this about two days a week (not including weekends). No days in specific. Random days. Surfing just expresses feelings in such an interesting way. It shows real talent and bravery. I mean, there such a big risk of getting hurt. The ocean one of the most powerful things on earth! I love to surf!!!!!!!!